Lock and Dam no. 8
Location:
The Corps has opened the floodgates.
Rising, the waters are picking up speed. The River seems to be in a hurry. Then again, we should resist the temptation to anthropomorphize the Mississippi.
The reassuring flow is energizing; as a departing letter predicted, fear is subsiding into respect. Floating into Iowa, it feels as though our journey has begun again. The Riff Raft is our house; the River is our home.
A red nun buoy dips back and forth against the flowing waters. The tip can be seen, but the chain that keeps it in place can only be felt. Anchored to the mud, rising through the weeds, the buoy is still, in motion, a tired dog chasing its own tail.
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
April 1832, the last Indian-American war east of the Mississippi ended in a bloodbath.
The final struggle of Black Hawk’s people for their right to exist erupted this time of year, in the dog days of summer. The old warrior chief in exile banded together hundreds of warriors, women and children to resist the bone saws of the American butchery. It was Black Hawk’s war.
Twenty years earlier, Black Hawk resisted American expansion in the war of 1812. Thirty years before that, the nascent American army burned his boyhood village during the Revolutionary War.
Determined to return to his land, Black Hawk fought back. Even after his death, his resistance never ceases.
Black Hawk’s people had traveled to the confluence of the Rock River from Montreal some hundred years before his birth. They were pushed from the Great Lakes down the Mississippi by the westward march of colonization.
A hundred years later, that same westward march would move Black Hawk too, first into war, then into defeat.
Black Hawk was a Sac, from the Osakiwug tribe, or Yellow Earth People. The Sac allied with the Meskwakihuk, Pottawatomi, Kickapoo, Mascotten, Winnebago, and Miami. Collectively, they were the People of the Fire.
That fire burned with an intensity rarely seen but often felt throughout history. The band escaped to Battle Island, refusing to surrender to the fire of guns. Before the final battle ensued, Black Hawk implored the American steamboat Warrior to spare the children and women. The Warrior answered the warrior with cannonade. The resulting Battle of Bad Axe unfolded in kind, a massacre.
The massacre ended at Battle Island, just downstream from Victory. Today, the small Wisconsin community lays in defeat of economic collapse. These days it’s not so easy to tell who the victor is.
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We float past Jackson Island, across the River from Harper’s Ferry, twenty miles downstream from Battle Island.
Black Hawk and his remaining band evaded the onslaught in the dense forest, backwater sloughs, and thick marsh grass of Jackson Island. But the Anglos hunted them down, following the overflow of their corpses floating in the River. The woods only provide so much cover from cannon fire.
A flicker of Huckleberry Finn’s voice sparks our memories. “Then the captain sung out: ‘Stand away!’ and the cannon left off such a blast right before me that it made me deaf with the noise and pretty near blind with the smoke, and I judged I was gone. If they had some bullets in it I reckon they’d a got the corpse they was after.”
Twain’s cannon fires for Finn, aiming to find his corpse. Finn hides in the thick brush of Jackson Island, this time a fictitious one, just downstream from a ferry landing. In Finn’s adventures, the cannon fails to raise the dead, because the dead are already alive.
The cannon fire incinerated the last of Black Hawk’s band. Black Hawk’s fate was worse: he survived.
He spent his last days in chains, touring the country as a circus spectacle, his stoic presence entertaining the foppish gentlemen and hidebound ladies of New York, Baltimore, Philadelphia.
Black Hawk’s village, Saukenuk, is now the city of Rock Island Illinois. The place where his people once thrived is now Arsenal Island, the largest government-owned weapons manufacturing arsenal in the western world.
Long after the People of Fire were extinguished, the stockpile of corpses continues.
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
The Corps unlocks the doors of Lock and Dam no. 8. We cut through Thief Slough past the Genoa Power Plant to return a power drill the Corps lent us the night before. A wing dam takes out our prop. The turbulent waters turn to eddies, and the Genoa Triangle nearly sucks us into the gnashing teeth of its turbines. We reenter the stretch of the Mississippi they call pool nine with our tail between our legs.
We rest near Battle Island for lunch. The area’s parks and streets carry Black Hawk’s name. His story echoes in the chambers of the land’s memory.
Battle Island rests a couple miles downstream from the Plant. Built as a coal-fired plant, converted to nuclear, the site burns coal once again. Fissionable material continues to decay in the reactor’s core. For tens of thousands of years the rods of uranium will radiate. For humans, this is close to eternity. For the Earth, it is less time than it takes for plants to turn to coal.
Two monuments--one living, one dead--immortalize the Battle Island Massacre in the area. A small placard commemorates Black Hawk in a park that bears his name, lifeless words carved in stone. Across the River, the Plant that burns coal, the ancient ancestors of plants, testifies to the site where so many People of Fire burned alive.
The work we’ve done can be seen, but the enormous task still ahead can only be felt. The River’s steady flow centers us amidst the chaos of our work. The ecosystems of the River show us the task, and they are what keep us in place.
Still, in motion, we feel like six tired dogs chasing our own tale.
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